After our fantastic morning at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park Mr A and I headed back to Shibu Onsen, which is a well-known Japanese spa town. This means that as well as our ryokan, Senshinkan Matsuya, having its own private onsen, there are also 11 public ones in the town which are used by both locals, as part of their daily bathing ritual, and visiting tourists.
Shibu’s fame began in 1303, when priests from the temples in Kyoto discovered the healing effects of the local hot springs. Since then the town has attracted visitors from all over the world and the water in each of the onsen is supposed to help certain ailments, ranging from common coughs and colds to gout.
Unlike in some of the Japanese ryokans, the onsen aren’t fancy. They are quite simple, either wooden or tiled rooms. Our ryokan host told us that certain ones are thought of as the ‘fun’ ones, where you’re always assured to get some good gossip.
In the evening, before our delicious kaiseki meal, we tried out three of the baths. We were a little nervous at first about using public ones, but once you understand the routine it’s pretty straightforward:
- The baths are divided into male and female, so make sure you get the right one for starters!
- In Shibu Onsen, guests who are staying at a local ryokan are given a master key at no additional cost which unlocks all of the bathhouse doors; visitors to the town can also access the key at the tourist information centre for a small charge.
- Once you’ve unlocked the main door you’ll enter a small changing room. This is a good way to spot if anyone else is using the baths if you’re feeling a bit nervous, as you’ll see their piles of clothes.
- In the changing room remove all of your clothing and leave it in the lockers/shelves.
- Go through the second door into the onsen and sit on one of the stools around the edge of the baths to wash yourself thoroughly with the provided bucket or showerhead (this is the important one. Do not get into the main bath without washing first.)
- Then, once you’re thoroughly clean, sink into the communal bath and relax! (Beware, in Shibu the water is very hot and can be up to 40C. It is possible to add water from a cold tap over the bath but make sure you ask anyone else bathing whether it is okay.)
Although we felt a little self-conscious about using the locals’ baths, we found the whole experience really enjoyable. Like many things in Japan, I love observing the simple rituals and it was nice to see the town’s residents using the onsen as part of their daily routine. Because the town is very tourist-friendly we didn’t feel unwelcome in the baths, as people are used to seeing strangers in them, so hopefully they forgave any mistakes we made!
As night drew in we enjoyed the feeling of stepping out of the boiling hot baths into the cool mountain air. We found it funny that tourists are encouraged to walk through the paved streets in their Yukatas (a cotton kimono, which is kind of like a dressing gown) and geta (traditional footwear which is kind of a combination between flip flops and clogs) which are provided by the ryokans.
After an amazing dinner at Senshinkan Matsuya Mr A and I headed back outside to try another three baths, comparing notes about which was our favourite as we met up after each one. We even got up early the next morning to sneak in a quick bathe before breakfast and then enjoyed a final soak in an outdoor footbath before we checked out of our ryokan.
Shibu Onsen was a special place to us, as it was the first stop on our honeymoon in Japan which introduced us to the traditional elements of Japanese culture, from the wonderful ryokan we stayed in to the art of the onsen. Turns out it was just a taster of what was to come!